Buffalo River Trip

Friday I left Fort Collins at 8:30 am, headed for Denver and then East on I-70. It was windy, so hard driving, especially with a boat on the roof. I stopped in Hays Kansas, about 4 pm Denver time, which was my original plan. I stayed in an adequate Econolodge, and ate at Vernies Hamburger house. I was tired. 

Saturday I got going about 8 am, and continued east to Salina, where i turned South. I turned east just north of Wichita on road 400, a good two lane road that was limited access in places. I turned south at Joplin Missouri, and headed for Bentonville, where I had a reservation at the Crystal Bridges art museum. I checked into a Quality Inn before 4 pm, and drove to the museum, to explore the art outside. The grounds are beautiful. 

I ate at Wright’s Barbeque, good and very popular. I walked around downtown a bit, and saw many folks dressed up, presumably for wedding photos. I even saw a wedding in progress outside the courthouse. The downtown is gentrified, and looks good.   Lots of Walton money.....

Sunday I went to the Crystal Bridges museum. Not a lot really struck me in the main museum, although I liked some of the outdoor pieces. The grounds are huge; you have to walk to see all the art. The special craft exhibit did have some excellent work. I had a good lunch outside at the Pressroom. 

I drove two hours to London, to Randy’s house. He rents a pretty good house for less than half what a studio apartment in Fort Collins would cost. He showed me around a bit. Very green, hills, reminds me of Kentucky. He cooked chicken on the grill. I spread out my gear and went through it , I think I am ready to go. 

We drove up to Ponca, and met Jim and Cynthia at Buffalo Outdoor Center at 9. We signed up for the shuttle there, and drove to Pruitt for the put in.  The put in was crowded with day trippers. I spoke to a lady from Houston Canoe Club, she knew John and Anne O. 

Our group, Jim, Cynthia, Randy, and I

We got on the water about 11. We paddled to mile 60 below Hasty Campground, about 8 miles. We scraped some until we got to Little Buffalo River. The river changed character below the Little Buffalo, it got wider and deeper.   We camped in the trees. Randy started a fire on the gravel bar. We found three folding chairs and a set of horseshoes.  It rained most of the night. 

Tuesday, We put our tents away wet, and got on the river 9:45. Jim and Cynthia got their canoe jammed against  a tree limb, after misjudging a cross current. Randy was able to pull the canoe loose, but it was full of water. Luckily, no one was hurt, with nothing lost but a paddle, which Randy found downstream.  The day was sunny and nice. 

We saw a turkey, many blue winged teal, and a bald eagle swoop down to the river to get a fish. 

We paddled pretty steady until 4 pm, and covered 14 miles to about mile 74. We saw no other boaters all day. We cooked and ate facing the river, on a gravel bar. 

Although it was clear earlier, it rained most of the night, sometimes hard. 

Wednesday. When we paddled by Richfield creek, it  was muddy and high, and the river changed character again, now muddy with water in the trees, like it was in flood.   We paddled to about mile 85, so 11 miles. We camped on a sand bar, but high enough to protect us if the river rose a few more feet. Randy started a fire and told stories. We talked to one guy in a car today, but saw no other boaters. It rained some overnight. 

Thursday. The sun was shining in the morning. The forecast was for rain that night, and all day Friday. We decided to come out a day early. We got in the river about 10 am, and reached the takeout before 2 pm, after a lunch break. 14 miles in 3 hours, 5 mph, despite a headwind. The high water meant fast current. We saw several boaters that day. 

Randy and I had fried catfish at Hillbilly Slims;  we got a tour of the commercial wood shop in back. 

Friday was on and off rain. Randy drove county roads and showed me his paddling spots. We fished some, no luck. Randy drove me to the dam on the Arkansas that creates Lake Dardenelle. 

Saturday we ran Big Piney Creek from the state park to the Moore Outdoor center. We had a quiet paddle, spent a long time socializing afterwords.  People were just glad to be able to talk face to face after a long covid winter.  Randy has known the Moore’s for 30 years. 

Sunday I said goodbye to Randy, got on the road before 8 am, and stopped in Shamrock Texas, a town with a Route 66 theme, including a 1930’s art deco gas station with a Tesla charging station in back.  The town is an odd mix of old junk and new murals.   I stayed at the retro but nice Shamrock Country Inn, 1970s style.

Monday I got on the road at 7:30, stopped at the Cadillac Ranch art installation in Amarillo, and then pressed on through wind to the Sand Creek Massacre site. I stopped in Limon at the Quality Inn after 10 hours of driving; I was tired.  It was snowing in Fort Collins, and cold in Limon.  

Tuesday there was about an inch of snow on the car, and the road reports were not good.   I went back to bed, and left the hotel about 10 am, after the sun had melted the ice on the roads.   The drive home was straightforward, with roads that were wet and dry, but not icy.

400,000 Cranes

 Sandi was able to get a slot at a blind on the Platte River to see the hundreds of thousands of Sandhill Cranes who spend time there every spring.    

On Thursday we drove partway, to North Platte, where we stayed in the Husker inn, owned by an Asian family.   A modest motel, but super well kept.  We had trouble finding outdoor seating for dinner; we later realized that in Nebraska, people don't sit outdoors to eat, even at fast food places.  We finally found take out at a Mexican restaurant.

Friday we drove to Kearney, where they claim the title of Sandhill Crane capital of the world.   We checked into the New Victorian Inn, a renamed older motel, and then drove around looking for birds in the fields.   We would see one group, then another, and some very large groups, too large to count, eating what was left after the fall harvest.   The birds are working to gain energy to head for northern Canada, or even Siberia.   

We arrived at the Nature Conservancy house an hour early, but our guide, Kate, was there to greet us, and gave us a tour of the shop.  She is a fellow, a kind of intern, very happy to be there;  she will be there for a year.      We drove to the river, and then walked to the blind, next to the Platte river.   The sun gradually went down, and we could see some birds flying, but none of the birds landed.   After the sunset, birds started to land, in a steady stream, which we understand includes miles of river.  Our blind had a large sand bar in front of us, and the sand bar gradually filled up with birds.   Any photos only show a very small part of the sea of birds.   It is almost a primeval event.

Our guide came and got us once it was fully dark, walking us back to our car using a red lantern, so as not to disturb the birds.

Our drive back on Saturday was routine.    Sandi had never seen the type of sign below, which Richard has sometimes seen in far eastern Colorado ranch areas.    It gives you a sense of how spread out the ranches are; directions in terms of miles rather than addresses.   We were unable to find information on the Eureka Club.