Thursday we headed north
towards Todos Santos. Check in at our Airbnb was 3 pm, so we decided
to hang out at a bar until then. On Wednesday, we had met a
Canadian musician at our hotel, and learned that he would be playing
at Shaka's bar in Cerritos on Friday night. Cerritos is about 15
minutes from Todo Santos, and on our way. We had lunch at Shaka's,
a classic funky surfer bar, and hung out. We arrived at our Airbnb
before 3 pm and moved in. The road is rough, but the place is nice.
The house is decorated in Mexican style, with decorative tile; the
owner is a silversmith. The house is almost at the top of the hill;
the deck has a great view of the town and mountains. Sandi and I
are in the upstairs bedroom. We decided to head to town, and had
dinner at Miguel's restaurant. After dinner we shopped at El Sol
Supermarket.
Friday we headed to town to
go shopping. After a couple of stops, we drove and found Tacos y
Mariscos El Sinaloense, where we had tacos, margaritas and beer.
After lunch, we found Bodegas Lizarraga, with a good selection of
vegetables. We bought shrinp and fish out of the back of a truck
across the street, and headed back home. We left the house about
5:45 to drive to Shaka's in daylight, and had dinner there.
The music at Shaka's was a
blast from the past,, and started at 7 PM, perhaps keeping in mind
the age of the audience. Most of the people there were senior
citizens, including the musicians. The music was from our youth.
Dave Stone, the musician we met in Cabo, is 69 years old, still
rocking, playing the keyboard and singing. His guitar player was
about the same age. There were people dancing, and Sandi and I got
on the dance floor towards the end of the first set. We carefully
drove home in the dark.
Saturday, we drove to the
Hotel California for lunch. The story is that the Eagles song of the
same name refers to this hotel, but the hotel website denies it.
The Hotel is a boutique hotel. The magazine is from our local REA, which publishes photos of folks holding their magazine in interesting places.
Sandi and I walked around the town,
looking for shoes and scoping out the stores. Sandi bought artisanal
cocoa from a tiny shop. There was a kind of tree in one shopping
area, with many anonymous wishes on cards hanging from the tree.
Sandi and Pam fixed a nice shrimp dinner. We had seen posters
advertising a music festival, with a preview performance at La Morena
bar; Richard went down to check it out and learn more about the
festival.
We discovered that we are
exactly on the Tropic of Cancer, which is 23.4363 degrees north of
the equator. The upper deck of the house is 23.4368 degrees north,
according to my phone. The road is 23.4365, so the tropic of cancer
runs through the yard of the house across the street. Our altitude is
163 feet. To define the Tropic of cancer, it is the northernmost
lattitude at which the sun is directly overhead, generally on June
20th.
Sunday we went to the noon
mass in downtown Todos Santos. It was well attended, with an
enthusiastic choir. At the end of mass, the priest explained how the
new bishop and the old bishop would share the job for three years,
and that there would be a big ceremony in the stadium in La Paz for
the ordination of the new bishop. All were encouraged to attend the
ordination. We had a tasty lunch at Catrina Cantina, with garlic
fish that all agreed was outstanding.
We headed north to the
nonprofit which releases sea turtles, Tortugero Las Playitas.. They
patrol the beach, gather the eggs, and then incubate them in the sand
under a kind of greenhouse or hoop house. The Tropic of Cancer is as
far north as the turtles lay their eggs, and some do not hatch here
without help. They released the tiny black turtles near the water,
and they crawled towards the water until a wave carried them out to
sea. This time of year, some turtles hatch every day.
Monday we headed downtown to
shop; we found tourist items, expensive clothes, and many beautiful
things. The ladies bought T-shirts for grandkids, Richard bought
sandals, David bought a hat, and we hit mostly the shops north of the
church. The sidewalks were challenging to walk, as the town is not
flat, and the sidewalks vary a lot. Lunch was at the restaurant Tre
Galline, which is Italian for three hens, and was excellent. We
dropped off laundry to pick up Wednesday. The ladies cooked fish for
dinner.
Tuesday Sandi and Richard
went out to visit shops north of the church. Sandi bought some
earrings from a silversmithing shop run by a silversmithing family.
Her grandmother appeared in a Mexican Silversmithing book. We
chatted with a sculptor who had some very nice work in various media.
We had huevos rancheros at Tre Galline. We did some grocery
shopping, and then came home to pick up Pam and Dave for our cooking
lesson at Hablando Mexicano.
Victoria, the instructor, spoke little
English; Richard translated as required. She started with ceviche
made with marlin that her father had caught. It takes lots of lemons
to make ceviche. We had poblano chiles sliced in thin strips, cooked
in light cream, with blue corn tortillas mixed and flattened by hand.
She cooked over a hardwood fire. We all had a good time, and the
food was excellent.
We have to show the dogs who hung around our house. They were never a problem, except when you had to step over them......
Wednesday we went to
Cerritos Beach Club for lunch. Manuel, our waiter, brought a
chalkboard to our table with the menu written on it. We enjoyed
being next to the water. We drove through Pescadero, which had a
commercial district and modest houses. Pescadero is on the east side
of the main road, the Carretera Transpenninsular.