On Monday we went first to the ruins of
Ollantaytambo, and the unfinished Temple of the Sun. The water
system and ritual baths were very interesting. The hike to the top
of the ridge was steep but short. The town was having a
celebrations, with music and native costumes.
We took two hour bus ride up a
switchback road to Accha Alta, to visit another textile village, at
12,800 feet in elevation. Lunch was at the village. These villagers
do somewhat different types of weaving; a lot of shopping took place.
We also received the skeins of yarn that we had helped dye. We
made a stop at an overlook to see another ruin, and admired the
alpacas. Many people live well above treeline.
We returned to the same hotel, the
Taypikala Sacred Valley in Urubamba. Walking around the beautiful
grounds, we saw a separate meeting room. We were told that they had
Shamanic gatherings there.
Tuesday we started our day with a visit
to the handicraft market of Pissac. We bought a few small things,
including the two bulls and a cross found on the roof of many
buildings here; the bulls represent the indigenous religion and
Pachamama.
Sandi Shearing a llama |
We continued to the village of
Chauyatiri, at 12,460 ft elevation. There were a many weavers at
work when we arrived, in their native costume. Sandi participated
in shearing a llama with a knife. She also learned an edging stich
from a young woman.
Receiving line in village |
Embroidered skirt |
Sandi bought this piece |
The lady teaching Sandi a stich |
This village did not have electricity until 2017. It is amazing to see the houses on the hillsides, farming the terraces that may be pre-Inkan.
We visited briefly the ruins near
Pisac; the most notable features were the terraces and the looted
tombs cut into the hillside.
Thursday was a free day in Cusco.
Sandi had meetings with the textile folks. Richard went to the
regional museum; the most interesting thing was the rebellion of
Tupac Amaru against the Spanish in 1780. This was a kind of Inka
revival movement; Tupac had noble blood, and he is still an icon for
native rights. Although the rebels had some initial successes, the
rebellion was put down, and Tupac was quartered in the square in
1871. There is a huge mural in the museum depicting his execution.
When Sandi got out of her meetings, we
went to the Maximo Laura museum and gallery, where we saw impressive
tapestries with bright colors. One of Maximo's students was working
on one of his pieces in the back of the gallery. We continued to
the Inka museum, which had a special exhibit of Maximo Laura
tapestries.
We saw many children and adults in
costume for Halloween. The streets were crowded as we walked to our
farewell dinner. We were headed to Lake Titicaca the next day. The
rest of the group was going to Lima and then home.
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